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Overheating a clutch can seriously weaken the flywheel. So if you come across a cooked clutch, remove the flywheel and have it Magnafluxed to make sure there aren't any radial (or other) cracks leading away from the bolt holes.
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Test the new disc on the input shaft splines - it should slide back and forth freely. If it doesn't, rust or a small nick may be hanging it up. Use a fine hand file or emery cloth to remove any small nicks or burrs from the input shaft splines or clutch hub.
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Test fit the pressure plate on the flywheel before final assembly to pinpoint any interference problems or binding on the locating dowels.
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A curved face throwout bearing must always be used with straight pressure plate levers; and a flat-faced throwout bearing must always be used with curved pressure plate levers.
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The flywheel needs to be smooth and flat for the clutch disc to get a proper grip. If it shows signs of scoring, uneven wear, or burn marks, have it resurfaced. A light cut can be taken off the face and yield like-new performance.
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Always mark the location of the flywheel before you unbolt it so it can be reinstalled in the exact same position. This is important to maintain engine balance on some applications.
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Anytime a flywheel is resurfaced, check the mounting hole counterbore depths. If too much material is removed, the pressure plate mounting bolts may run out of thread and won't pull the pressure plate cover down solidly against the flywheel. So double check!
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Even if the flywheel hasn't been removed, retorquing the mounting bolts in a criss-cross pattern to factory specification is always a good idea.
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Prior to reassembly, the flywheel and pressure plate should be thoroughly cleaned with a non-petroleum-based solvent then dried with compressed air. Wiping cloths and rags should not be used to dry parts.
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Lightly coat the input shaft splines, clutch hub and throwout bearing hub and face with high-temperature grease to ensure everything works smoothly.
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The use of the proper alignment tool is a must. If you can't obtain one don't use dead reckoning to line up the clutch with the pilot bearing. You'll spend a long, sweaty time trying to force the trans axle into the misaligned clutch.
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Be sure to install the disc in the right direction with the hub assembly away from the flywheel (it should be marked.)
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Install the pressure plate mounting bolts finger tight, then torque them progressively in a criss-cross pattern to keep the pressure even around the circumference of the pressure plate.
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Always use new high-strength fasteners and lock-washers when changing a clutch assembly and a thread lock, such as Loctite, to prevent the bolts from working loose.
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Check the release lever for wear or misalignment. Also, don't forget to lubricate the clutch release lever contact points and pivot before final assembly.
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Never allow the weight of the transmission to "hang" from the disc. Be sure that the engine and transmission are fully mated together before you relieve the transmission support.
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Of course, always replace any component about which there's any doubt. Reusing a pilot bearing or throwout bearing is no savings when the job comes back.
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Test drive each new clutch job before delivery to make certain everything is operating properly. Advise the owner to return after several thousand miles for an inspection and readjustment.
