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Tech Tips
Use this comprehensive information library whenever you need helpful hints from car repair professionals. Whether you are a professional or a DIY mechanic, you’re sure to find the tips you need to insure a job well done. Click here to go back to the previous page any time during your search.
Brakes
Brake Hydraulics: Maintenance and Troubleshooting Tips
BRAKES DRAG
- Bad master cylinder
- Tapered lining wear caused by improper caliper mounting
- Residual pressure valve in system where it's not needed, or residual valve with too high pressure
- System hydraulically locked up by lack of pedal freeplay
- Weak, deflecting caliper mounting brackets
- Caliper misaligned at rotor
- Excessive rotor runout/warped rotors
- Master cylinder has internal residual pressure valve. Remove valve.
PEDAL TRAVEL TOO DEEP
- Air trapped in fluid
- Master cylinder too small
- Pedal ratio too great
- Excessive spindle deflection in cornering (causing caliper piston knock-back)
- Warped rotors
- Calipers misaligned at rotor
OSCILLATION FEEDBACK (PEDAL BOUNCE)
- Excessive rotor runout
- Rotor faces not parallel
- Cracked rotor
- Loose or improperly mounted caliper
- Pad lining buildup (welding) on rotors
- Excessive front wheel bearing clearance
CAR PULLS DURING BRAKING
- Contaminated brake pad on one or more calipers
- Sticking/frozen pistons in one or more calipers
- Wheel alignment (incorrect camber, caster or toe) Examples: too much negative camber on right front will cause car to pull to the left; too little negative camber on right front will cause car to pull to the right; not enough positive caster on right front wheel will cause car to pull to the right; too much toe-out on right front can cause pull to the right.
PEDAL DROPS TO FLOOR DURING USE
- Fluid boiling (caused by overheat from brake drag; old or inadequate fluid; inadequate air ducting; undersize brake system for application)
- Master cylinder failure
- Leak in system (caliper, lines, etc.)
- Pedal linkage failure
- Excessive spindle deflection during cornering (causing caliper piston knock-back)
- Wrong size residual valve
EXCESSIVE PEDAL EFFORT REQUIRED
- Master cylinder too large
- Insufficient pedal ratio
- Caliper piston area too small
- Contaminated pads (oil, grease, etc.)
- Caliper pistons stuck/frozen
- Fade caused by incorrect pad selection (if rotors glow orange, don't use soft pads)
- Glazed pads/rotors (replace pads with correct type and sand rotors)
- Pedal mounted at severe angle (master cylinder pushrod should be no more than 5 degrees off-line of pedal and ideally should be in-line)
CALIPER LEAKS
- Caliper seals old, dried. Replace seals.
- Nick or other damage on piston, or damaged seal
SPONGY PEDAL
- Air in brake system
- Calipers incorrectly mounted with bleed screws not in high location
- Too-small master cylinder
- Faulty master cylinder
- Calipers misaligned to rotor
- Calipers mounted equal to or higher than master cylinder. Install 2-lb residual valve
- Excessive caliper flex. Check line pressure, which should not exceed 1500 psi
- Pedal ratio too great
- Excessive spindle deflection in corners, causing piston knock-back
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